SPANNER SKIN — Formulation

① The proof gap: no published spray-vs-lotion moisturiser trial anywhere (not even CeraVe lotion has its own eczema trial). "First spray proven to moisturise like a lotion" could be the category-maker.

② The "skip it" gap: people skip moisturiser because it's slow to absorb (62%), takes time (51%), sticky, visible. A spray answers all of them; the risk is "too watery to work" and under-dosing.

③ The tight-feeling gap: tightness tracks skin-layer stress, not hydration readings. Glycerin + a flexible film lower it. Measure felt tightness from 15 min to 12 h.

④ Truly gentle: 45% of "fragrance-free" moisturisers still hold a fragrance cross-reactor. Strict leave-out list; gentlest preservative (phenoxyethanol ≤1%).

🧪 Formula starting point: glycerin 10–20% · complete ceramide + cholesterol + fatty-acid set (incomplete sets slowed repair) · light film (dimethicone, synthetic squalane) · pH ~5 · optional niacinamide / ectoin. Leave out urea ≥4%, alcohol, propylene glycol, lanolin, botanicals, food-derived grades.

📏 Dose: ~20 g per body per use, so a 200 g can lasts ~4–7 days at twice a day. Post-shower isn't proven better; mild cooling can make itch worse.

Full summary + 5 reports in Obsidian: 02 - PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT / Formulation / P1 Evidence Review.

Leads for the chemist: ① water-compatible ceramide system (best fit; no human data yet for the exact system) · ② ectoin (most human evidence; the 2007 trial was a face anti-ageing study) · ③ Polyquaternium-51 / MPC polymer (medical-materials origin; thin evidence, watch tack). Supporting: silk 33B-α, CM-glucan, glyceryl glucoside, saccharide isomerate. Early stop/go: sacran.

Full report + Claude's checks in Obsidian: 02 - PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT / Formulation / Category-Maker Parallels — Astra Research Report.

🥇 MPC polymer (Polyquaternium-51): best category story ("from contact-lens materials to a light daily body moisturiser"); one small human study; needs a stop/go test against the same formula without it. Bioderma already uses it quietly.

🥈 Ectoin: best evidence, but already a hero in Australia (Paula's Choice, The Ordinary).

🥉 Water-friendly skin-lipid system: best platform for P1's real job (24-hour hydration in CeraVe's own trial); the difference would be delivery, finish and proven lotion replacement.

Full report in Obsidian: Formulation / Category-Maker Hunt Round 2 — Astra Research Report.

Hypothiocyanite: no. No skin evidence; made by a cow's-milk enzyme; enzymes sprayed as a mist are a breathing-allergy risk; only proven job is antimicrobial. At most a natural preservative.

N-chlorotaurine: no. An antiseptic drug candidate (not approved anywhere); its only benefits are claims a cosmetic can't make; unstable (needs cold, alkaline, plain water); no cosmetic name or Australian listing.

Full reports in Obsidian: Formulation / Hypothiocyanite — Research Report and N-Chlorotaurine — Research Report.

Why: no human study shows topical lactoferrin helps eczema, dryness or the barrier · most lactoferrin is from cow's milk and is a known milk allergen (a real risk on broken eczema skin) · the staph effect is lab-only and also hits friendly bacteria · fragile in a water-based spray and can clog with hyaluronic acid · nobody owns it for eczema body care (Sesderma sells a lactoferrin mist in Europe) · Australian supply: Bega, and All G in Sydney (animal-free).

Astra's second opinion (6 Oct): same verdict. New: Australia's allergy body (ASCIA) advises people with eczema to avoid creams containing food products like milk, nut oils and wheatgerm; and All G's own trial (99 women, 1% lactoferrin, 28 days) reported better hydration and barrier from baseline, not yet peer-reviewed.

Full report in Obsidian: 02 - PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT / Formulation / Lactoferrin — Research Report.

#	Brand	Eff.	Fit	/10	🇦🇺	Note
1	Curél ✅	4	5	9	1	Pseudo-ceramide 4th + cholesterol in a spray, the P1 technical proof
2	La Roche-Posay Lipikar ✅	5	3	8	5	Real-dose shea + niacinamide at A$0.07/ml; no ceramides
2	Prequel ✅	5	3	8	2	Full lipid trio (5 ceramides + cholesterol + FA) at US$0.06/ml
2	Aestura ✅	5	3	8	4	Pseudo-ceramide trio, Sephora AU
2	Aquaphor Body Spray ✅	3	5	8	2	Occlusive-only aerosol; clogs
2	Nécessaire ✅	4	4	8	3	Trace actives, pH ~4, A$0.60/ml
7	AMPERNA ✅	4	3	7	3	Trio at trace; lactic + urea sting risk
7	Cetaphil ✅	4	3	7	5	NMF humectants; trace ceramide
7	Uriage ✅	4	3	7	5	Mineral-oil base; "8 ceramides" are pseudo, trace
7	QV ✅ · CeraVe ✅	4	3	7	5	The cheap AU defaults
7	Codex Labs ✅	4	3	7	1	Clinical story, but cedarwood oil in a "FF" product
7	Tower 28 Beauty ✅	4	3	7	4	HOCl mist: calm, not barrier
7	Bangn Body ✅	3	4	7	5	Has a fragrance-free line + milk mist; lists "eczema"
15	Aveeno ✅	3	3	6	5	🚩 benzalkonium chloride
15	Yours Only ✅ · MooGoo ✅ · Dealbodies ✅	3	3	6	5/5/1	Basic base / botanical AUST L / BHA + bakuchiol
19	Supernova Body ✅	2	3	5	3	Good actives under parfum
—	Hanni · Irritated. · Illiyoon	4	4/4/3	8/8/7	1/1/3?	Watch tier: desk scores

🔑 Only 4 of 21 carry a real barrier-lipid system: Prequel, Curél, Aestura (meaningful doses) and AMPERNA/CeraVe (trace). Prequel does the full trio at US$0.06/ml, the best formula-to-price ratio found. Most "ceramide" claims (Nécessaire, Cetaphil, Aveeno, Codex, CeraVe) are trace, single-ceramide or after the preservative.

🔑 Pseudo-ceramides are how the Asian derm brands reach real doses (Curél 4th ingredient, Aestura 11th). Curél proves lipids can be solubilised into a spray that doesn't clog; Aquaphor's oily aerosol does clog. That's the P1 technical route to take to the chemist + Aeropac.

🚩 Hidden irritants in "eczema" products are common: benzalkonium chloride (Aveeno), an essential oil in a "fragrance-free" product (Codex cedarwood; MooGoo sage), acids that sting (AMPERNA lactic + urea, Graham's lactic at the eye, Nécessaire pH ~4, Dealbodies BHA), mineral oil/paraffin (QV, Uriage, Avène at the eye), nut oils (AMPERNA, MooGoo, Supernova, Codex). Spanner's clean-sheet advantage: real lipids + zero of these.

💰 The AU price floor is brutal: A$0.03–0.10/ml in pharmacy (QV, CeraVe, Aveeno, LRP, Cetaphil, Uriage, Yours Only). Premium tops out at Nécessaire A$0.60/ml. Spanner can't win on moisture-per-dollar. It has to win on feel, format (no-touch BOV), formula honesty and brand.

🗣 ARTG check (25 Sep): Aveeno Dermexa is a cosmetic (not on the TGA register) yet says "for eczema prone skin" + "relieves and soothes dry, itchy skin". QV DermCare Eczema, Graham's and (likely) Cetaphil are Class 1 medical devices, a third route that allows "relieves eczema / repairs barrier".

🧪 Occlusion is the gap in the light, pleasant products. The nice-feeling ones (Nécessaire, Yours Only, Cetaphil, Bangn) have no sealing layer; the sealing ones (QV, Aveeno, Aquaphor, Uriage) feel greasy. P1's formulation challenge in one line: light enough to spray, sealing enough to last.

📐 Only Dealbodies and MooGoo publish percentages (MooGoo because AUST L makes it). A "spec plate" (published %) fits Spanner's mechanic world and is almost unused.

Brand · hero	Format	Price · per ml	Lipid trio	Real-dose actives	🚩 Flags	"Eczema" wording	/10
Curél Deep Moisture Spray	aerosol mist	US$18 · 150 ml US$0.12	✅ pseudo-ceramide 4th + cholesterol	glycerin, pseudo-ceramide, allantoin	eucalyptus extract	none	9
La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M	balm pump	A$27.39 · 400 ml A$0.07	❌ no ceramides	shea (2nd), niacinamide (5th), glycerin	—	"mild eczema-prone" (CW category)	8
Prequel Barrier Therapy	cream	US$18 · 296 ml US$0.06	✅ 5 ceramides + cholesterol + behenic acid (pre-preservative)	1% colloidal oat, allantoin, safflower, shea	soy	"itch… due to eczema" (US OTC)	8
Aestura ATOBARRIER365 Cream	face tube	n/c · 80 ml —	✅ pseudo-ceramide 11th + FA + cholesterol	squalane, pseudo-ceramide	—	n/c	8
Aquaphor Body Spray Ointment Body Spray	butane aerosol	US mass · 105 g —	❌	petrolatum, mineral oil	clogs; paraffin	none	8
Nécessaire The Body Serum	airless pump	A$90 · 150 ml A$0.60	❌ single ceramide ▫️	glycerin (only)	pH 3.75–4.75, sulfite	via seal only	8
AMPERNA Hydrating Gentle Lotion	pump lotion	A$60 · 500 ml A$0.12	✅ trio ▫️ trace	niacinamide, urea, lactic acid	lactic + urea sting; almond oil	none on product page	7
Cetaphil PRO Eczema Prone Skin Restoring Moisturiser	pump lotion	A$26.99 · 295 ml A$0.09	❌ ceramide ▫️	glycerin, NMF (arginine/PCA), niacinamide ⚪	silicone-heavy	"eczema prone", "relieves itchy"	7
Uriage Xémose Anti-Irritation Cream	pump cream	A$37.99 · 400 ml A$0.095	⚪ pseudo-ceramides ▫️ + sterols	mineral oil (2nd), shea (3rd), squalane	paraffin; quat preservative	"atopic-prone", "repair"	7
QV QV Cream	tub	A$16.69 · 500 g A$0.03	❌	mineral oil, petrolatum, squalane, niacinamide ⚪	paraffin + petrolatum (greasy)	"suitable… with eczema"	7
CeraVe Moisturising Cream	tub	A$16.99 · 454 g A$0.04	✅ trio ▫️ trace	glycerin, petrolatum	—	none (AU)	7
Codex Labs Bia Eczema Relief Lotion	lotion	US$34–38 · 100 ml US$0.36	❌ ceramide ▫️	1% colloidal oat, ferments, plant oils	essential oil, comfrey, macadamia	"Eczema Relief" (US OTC)	7
Tower 28 Beauty SOS Rescue Spray	pump mist	US$28 · 118 ml US$0.24	❌	hypochlorous acid	—	grey-zone (US)	7
Bangn Body Firming Lotion FF (+ Milk Mist)	pump / milk mist	A$40 · 150 ml A$0.27	❌ (FF lotion)	shea, sunflower, aloe	coconut oil, pineapple enzyme	"eczema" in suitability list	7
Aveeno Dermexa Daily Emollient Cream	tube	A$19.49 · 500 ml A$0.04	❌ ceramide ▫️	panthenol (3rd), petrolatum, oat	🚩 benzalkonium chloride	"eczema-prone", "relieves itchy"	6
Yours Only COAT Face + Body	pump lotion	A$42 · 500 ml A$0.084	❌	(none: 8-ingredient base)	—	"eczema-prone" (AU indie)	6
MooGoo Eczema & Psoriasis Cream	tube	A$20.50 · 120 g A$0.17	❌	centella ~1%, chamomile ~1% (declared)	sage essential oil, almond oil	"relief of mild eczema"	6
Dealbodies Cruise Control	pump lotion	CA$42 · 300 ml ~A$0.15	❌	bakuchiol 2%, salicylic 0.5%, 22% oils (declared)	BHA + bakuchiol sting	none (reactive/acne)	6
Supernova Body Cozy Cream	cream	A$72 · n/c —	⚪ 3 ceramides	panthenol, ectoin, oat oil	fragrance, bitter orange oil, almond	none ("repairing")	5

Formulation

📚 P1 evidence review: where Spanner can fill the gap (11 Oct)

🔎 Category-maker parallels (Astra deep research, 4 Oct)

🏁 Category-maker hunt, round 2 (6 Oct)

🧪 The "HOCl relatives" (research, 4 Oct)

🥛 Lactoferrin (research, 4 Oct)

🧪 Formulation Ranking

🧪 Formulation Data