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The headline: Australia has no pre-market approval for cosmetics. The legal baseline is tiny — ~$80/year (AICIS) + correct ingredient labelling + truthful claims. The real budget is credibility testing: ~$5k–$15k+ per SKU, and stability testing (~3 months) is the launch bottleneck.
Legally required (AU)
ObligationWhat it meansCost
AICIS registrationRegister the business (not products) before importing/manufacturing. If the AU contract manufacturer is the legal "introducer," they register — confirm per supply chain.$80/yr
Ingredient categorisationStandard INCI ingredients = "Listed" on the Inventory → no per-ingredient fees. Novel chemicals cost $7.7k–$36k to assess — avoid early.nil
Annual declarationTo AICIS by 30 Nov; keep records 5 years.nil
Ingredient labellingACCC Cosmetics Information Standard 2020 — descending order ≥1%, colour additives last, on the container.design-time
Truthful claims (ACL)ACCC can demand substantiation of any claim; corporate penalties: greater of $100M / 3× benefit / 30% turnover (verified, in force 28 Mar 2026).
TGA boundary"Treats/relieves eczema" = therapeutic good. ⚠️ "Eczema-prone skin" is industry phrasing, NOT published TGA wording — legally grey, get advice. ⚠️ Context converts claims: soft copy next to severe-flare imagery or marketed into an eczema-community channel can become therapeutic — directly relevant to the Reddit strategy.
P1 aerosol (BOV)UN 1950 Class 2.2 (non-flammable). AS 2278.1 container standard = voluntary but expected. AusPost: aerosols domestic-only, never international.via filler
The "eczema" escape hatch (later, optional): AUST L listing = $1,063 + $1,566/yr, effectively immediate via the ELF portal — and the permitted indications are strong: "decrease/reduce/relieve symptoms of mild eczema/dermatitis" and the itch version (verified from the current instrument; "mild" only + mandatory label statement; even AUST L can't say "cures/treats"). The real cost is GMP manufacture: licence $1,003 + $1,247/hr inspections + $6,399/yr — plus the commercial reality of GMP-grade production. Route: launch cosmetic with disciplined descriptive copy → AUST L for one hero SKU once revenue justifies GMP. (Resolves Red Team critical #1.)
Standard testing (optional by law, expected in practice)
TestPurposeCost (AUD)Time
Stability + pack compatibilitySubstantiates shelf life; run in final packaging (incl. the BOV can for P1)from $2,000+GST (published, Auskin)~3 mo accelerated — the bottleneck
Preservative challenge (PET)ISO 11930 / USP 51 — water-containing productsfrom $950+GST (published)28 days + turnaround
MicrobialCounts + pathogens. Eye-area products face the strictest limits (Category 1)low hundreds/batch (est.)days
Safety assessment (CPSR)Not required in AU; mandatory only for EU/UK export. Cheap insurance dossier.~$150–600 (est.)1–3 wks
HRIPT patch testSubstantiates "dermatologically tested" / hypoallergenic. Panels 50/100/200.~$3,000–8,000+ (est.)up to ~6 wks
👁 The eye-area stream (P2 / P3) — Talia's hard requirement, confirmed by the research: "Ophthalmologist tested" = an in-use panel (~30 people) supervised by a licensed ophthalmologist with slit-lamp exams. No Australian lab advertises this — it's likely an overseas engagement (Princeton Consumer Research, Eurofins CRL, Dermatest DE; one NL lab publishes it at ~$630–740 AUD). Closest AU option: Eurofins Dermatest AU lists "ophthalmologist certification at additional cost" — enquire directly. Bonus: a sting/discomfort panel in the same study substantiates the "tested for comfort" sensory positioning the right way.
Seals & certifications — ranked for Spanner Skin
⚠️ Correction: the EAA program is now the "Proud Partner" tiered partnership logo (assessed by their advisory panel) — not the old "Tried & Tested" seal. Still the #1 AU mark; market it accurately.
ProgramWhat it takesCostVerdict
🥇EAA Proud Partner (AU)Advisory-panel product assessment; "Emerging Brand" tier exists for indies; logo on pack + marketingunpublished — four figures/yr (est.)The only eczema-specific AU on-pack mark. QV, CeraVe, Tower 28 & AMPERNA are partners. Get the prospectus.
🥈Dermatest seals (DE)HypoSense: 30 sensitive-skin subjects (30% atopic), 4-wk in-use, ~11–13 wks. Eye testing available.study quote-only, five figures (est.); seal free on passOne spend, three outcomes: seal + AU claim substantiation + future NEA evidence.
🥉Leaping Bunny (via CFI)Whole-brand supplier declarations + annual recommitmentcert free; logo ~US$500 onceNear-zero cost, global recognition. Do early while supplier list is short.
NEA Seal (US)Zero Ecz-clusion ingredients, fragrance-free, HRIPT/CIT/SIU evidence, MD panel. Needs US distribution + US tax ID; seal can't go on AU packs~US$13k+ yr 1/productThe endgame, not the start. But formulate against the Ecz-clusion List NOW — Tower 28's spray + eye creams prove both formats qualify.
AllergyCertified / Sensitive Choice / NES (UK)tox review ~€495 + 0.45% turnover / ≥$6k-yr asthma-oriented / no product seal existsMaybe later / skip / skip
The route — formulation → market
AICIS registration + Inventory check on every ingredient legal
Stability + compatibility starts immediately — it gates everything (~3 mo accelerated; real-time continues underneath)
PET + microbial on final formula in final packaging (parallel)
Safety & claims review — cosmetic-vs-therapeutic line check on all copy AND imagery
Claim tests in parallel — HRIPT for all SKUs; ophthalmologist in-use study for P2/P3 (overseas)
Label compliance — ACCC ingredient standard legal + AS 2278.1 warnings on P1
Product liability insurance ($5–20M cover; a few hundred $/yr (est.) — stockists usually require it)
Launch → AICIS annual declaration every 30 Nov legal
Per-SKU totals: ~$3–5k basic (stability + PET + micro) → $5–15k+ with claim tests (HRIPT + eye study). Timeline: ~3–4 months minimum to a defensible launch, stability-gated. Sequencing: Ecz-clusion-compliant formulation from day one (free) → Leaping Bunny early → EAA at launch → Dermatest/SIU when formulation locks → NEA if/when the US happens.
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Canonical home: Obsidian → 02 - PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT/Testing/Testing.md